The Rolex Explorer II, specifically the reference 16550, holds a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts. Its robust build, GMT functionality, and distinctive orange hand all contribute to its legendary status. But beyond the movement and case, a crucial element defining the watch's appearance and value is the bezel. This article will delve into the intricacies of the Rolex 16550 bezel, exploring its design, materials, condition, sourcing, and the overall impact it has on the watch's desirability and collectability.
The reference 16550, produced from approximately 1984 to 1989, represents a transitional period in the Explorer II line. It bridges the gap between the earlier 1655 (with its fixed bezel) and the later 16570 (featuring a redesigned case and movement). Understanding the nuances of the 16550 bezel is therefore crucial for anyone interested in acquiring or appreciating this specific model.
The Design and Construction:
Unlike the fixed bezels found on its predecessor, the 16550 boasts a rotating 24-hour bezel. This is a critical feature for the Explorer II, designed for use in challenging environments where tracking a second time zone is vital. The bezel insert itself is typically made of aluminum, although the exact shade and patination can vary significantly depending on age and exposure. The color is generally described as black, but shades can range from deep charcoal to a slightly faded, greyish black. This variation is part of the charm of vintage Rolex watches, adding to their unique character.
The numerals and markings on the bezel are filled with a luminous material, usually tritium in earlier examples and potentially Luminova in later productions. The condition of this lume is a major factor in determining the overall condition and value of the bezel. Cracking, fading, or discoloration of the lume are common signs of age and wear. A pristine, evenly luminous bezel is a highly sought-after characteristic.
The bezel itself is securely fixed to the watch case by a series of precisely engineered components. It rotates with a satisfyingly firm click, ensuring accurate timekeeping in the second time zone. The interaction between the bezel and the case is a testament to Rolex's commitment to precision and durability. A poorly functioning bezel, or one showing signs of significant wear, detracts significantly from the overall appeal of the watch.
Sourcing a Genuine Rolex 16550 Bezel:
Given the age and desirability of the 16550, sourcing a genuine bezel insert can be a challenge. The market is rife with counterfeit parts, making due diligence essential. Reputable sellers, such as the one referenced – OC Watch Collection, LLC – with a high positive feedback rating (98.9%), offer a degree of assurance, but careful examination is always necessary.
When searching for a genuine Rolex 16550 bezel, look for the following indicators:
* Authenticity Markers: While specific hallmarks might vary, experienced collectors and watchmakers can identify subtle details indicative of authenticity. These might include specific font styles, the depth of the engravings, and the subtle texture of the aluminum.
* Seller Reputation: Choose reputable sellers with a proven track record and positive customer reviews. Check multiple sources and compare prices to avoid being overcharged.
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